well, dear readers, after an unblemished string of sunny, it-doesn't-get-more-perfect gorgeousness, it has happened. rain. the skies opened up as mama becky and i emerged, disoriented and totally turned around, from the t-bana (the stockholm subway system). i directed us to a corner with clear signage, cursing and recoiling at the first sprinklings, and installed the grandmother under the overhang as i bumbled with the aforementioned map of shame. "i do believe i felt rain" i hear in an unmistakable drawl, as i attempt to suss out our location. i am superstitious. do not say rain, do not speak of it, if you feel it, ignore it. i said nothing and, deciding to just take a whack at getting us un-lost, began walking. and that's when it happened. unmistakable: rain, unleashed from arctic skies, pummeled us mercilessly. we were ill prepared. there was one plastic head-wrap i associate with russian babushkas or southern grande dames of the supermarket and a travel size umbrella between us. mama becky called it in. losses were cut, defeat was admitted. we got in a taxi for the measly yet unnavigable in downpour 4 blocks we had til the hotel. and here we lay, mama becky supine in what appears to be some sort of yoga pre-nap pose and i, cheered by a chocolate bar and dry clothes, perched on the window seat.
the day, however, was a success. we initially walked to the island of skeppsholmen intending to take in the museum of modern art (which is supposed to be one of the finest contemporary collections in the world). i was pumped. the walk out to skeppsholmen was really beautiful, very lush and green.
we arrive to find out the museum is actually closed on mondays! such a bummer. i am determined to go and check it out before we leave. mama becky actually staged this photo op. you may have noticed i am a fan of bright lipstick...
we had to walk back to the hotel and regroup. we settled on taking our chances and heading out to the millesgarden. the sky looked questionable, but it was relatively sunny in downtown stockholm so we went to catch a train and then bus. mama becky was elated. we navigated the subway and bus situation with no difficulty, and walked right into millesgarden.
millesgarden is the home of famous swedish sculptor carl milles. he and his wife olga, a respected artist in her own right, built their home overlooking the sea. today, it has been converted into a fantastic museum and outdoor garden space. there is a terraced yard with dozens of enormous sculptures and fountains. their home has been converted into a museum, displaying more of carl and olga's work, as well as their impressive private collection of works spanning thousands of years, from antiquities to medieval sculpture to contemporary glasswork.
i took over 200 photos and several pages of notes today. to say i enjoyed the millesgarden is an understatement. as an artist myself, i was incredibly moved by the scale of milles' vision... his integration of his craft into his daily life, his motivation to surround himself with creative nourishment, and his incredible generosity in dedicating it to the swedish (and international) public.
the hand of god.
one of my favorites.
venus.
olga milles' studio and work desk.
i am intensely interested in artists' working spaces...
besides milles' work, i am most impressed by their collection of medieval and renaissance work. much of it is religious (reiterations of the madonna and child) but all emanates a palpable gravity. i went through the room these were housed in twice!
my favorite room with an incredible selection of medieval to renaissance works.
mama becky, waiting patiently while i document everything...
intriguing exhibit in the main museum space about an artist famed for his simple fashion sketches. i liked the exhibit but honestly found it underwhelming after the scale of the rest of the museum.
take a look at the layout though. beautiful.
postscript.
full disclosure, today was a bit of a challenge. to sum it all up, getting home from millesgarden was more difficult than getting there. we tried to board a bus right outside the garden that was going back to the station but our passes wouldn't work. i had assumed, like an idiot, that we had round trip tickets when we really just had one way. cut to the next scene, which involved an arduous conversation with a very patient grocery store clerk, who gave us directions that included the phrase "walk on this street until you can walk no more" and we were on a vague quest to the presbyrian (convenience store that sells bus passes).
we have recovered from our aquatic adventure, ate a huge dinner, and are now back in the warmth of our hotel room for an early night.
xo
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